Spaccanapoli

- Piazza del Gesù Nuovo, Piazza San Domenico Maggiore, Piazza Crocelle ai Mannesi, Piazza Calenda -

In Greek times, the area between San Domenico Maggiore and Santa Chiara was outside the city walls. The new extra-urban section, the "regio albinensis", comprising Piazza del Gesù, part of Santa Chiara and all of Via Benedetto Croce, was to be included in the new and more extensive Narsete city wall. The area became more clearly defined in Anjevin times. The most ancient sacred areas situated at the edges of the lay-out - San Domenico Maggiore, Santa Chiara, San Francesco delle Monache, Santa Marta - define precisely these origins, together with some private residences in the same Decuman section (Palazzo Filomarino and Palazzo Venezia).The signs of that period are still visible today in the walled-up Gothic windows which can be seen at the side of Santa Marta, or in the Ogival arches of the wall of the stairway to Palazzo Filomarino, in whose courtyard the lava stone gateways with a fine attention to detail rarely found in non-religious buildings are the most noteworthy feature. The structure of the courtyard is attributed to Francesco Mormando. The gate of the building was re-made by Ferdinando Sanfelice at the beginning of the 18th century. Under the guidance of Benedetto Croce and the foundation of the Institute of Historical Studies, the building became one of the most significant cultural centres of the city.Further along, Palazzo Venezia, which once housed the Embassy of the Venetian Republic in Naples, is 14th century in origin. The fabric of the building underwent reconstruction in the 17th and l9th centuries. The oldest parts can be seen in the courtyard with its characteristic open staircase with 3 supporting arches and a quiet garden. The balconies date back to the 18th century while the Pompeian pavilion in the garden is from the last century.The Carafa della Spina building dating from the end of the 15th century, is attributed to Domenico Fontana. The late 16th century layout of the building was lost to reconstruction in the 18th century which gave rise to the incredible "bocca scena" gateway, and also to subsequent restoration in 1818.On the right is Palazzo Mazziotti which is of 17th century design and whose internal garden, of which little is left today, is said to have served as a cemetery to the nearby Franciscan monastery.Palazzo Petrucci, on the corner of Via Benedetto Croce and Piazza San Domenico, was built at the beginning of the 15th century by the architect De Sanctis who was commissioned by the Del Balzo family. The façades are of 18th century design, whereas in the inner courtyard can be seen a staircase influenced by the Durres style and behind it a garden. The restoration of the l9th century is apparent in this 15th century nucleus. The 15th century gateway is still intact.In Piazza San Domenico Maggiore turn past Palazzo Corigliano and Palazzo Di Sangro. In Via De Sanctis we come across the Sansevero chapel. The main entrance the church of San Domenico Maggiore is on a side street. Back on the square we find the Palazzo Casacalenda. Begun by Gioffredo, it was completed by Luigi Vanvitelli. The building lost its left wing on the occasion of the widening of Via Mezzocannone in the last century. Corresponding to the beginning of the lesser Decuman (in 1499), Cesare Pignatelli built the chapel which today bears his name next to the ruins of the Seat of the god of the Nile. Next to this is the statue of the Nile which was erected by Alexandrians who had imported the worship of this god and was placed in its current location in 1667. Opposite is the church of Sant'Angelo a Nilo. On the other side of the square three buildings follow on from one another. First, the Palazzo del Panormita, probably started by Giovanni Francesco di Palma in the 15th century and finished in the 16th by Giovanni Donadio. The second is the Palazzo Diomede Carafa Santangelo, then the Monte di Pietà, and on the left the 15th century Palazzo Marigliano.On the other side of Via Duomo, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore dates back to the end of the 4th and the beginning of the 5th centuries. Rebuilt in grandiose style by Cosimo Fanzago, it lost a nave to the widening of Via Duomo in the l9th century. Continuing on the left we find the neo-Doric market and then the church of Santa Marta a Piazza partially demolished during the restructuring of the area. It is one of the oldest churches in Naples (9th century). Opposite is the 14th century church of Sant'Agrippino.The Forcella area was, in Roman times, dedicated to thermal baths and bathing areas. Traces of the old Greek wall can still be seen in Piazza Calenda. We continue to Corso Umberto, which today faces the church of Santa Maria Egiziaca a Forcella. (Ugo Carughi)